After our subterranean adventure, we arrived in Hallstatt, a tiny village on the edge of Austria’s Hallstätter See that looks like it was painted by a master artist. The pastel houses, steep mountains rising from the lake, and charming waterfront make it one of Europe’s most scenic spots — and it’s easy to see why it’s been a magnet for photographers and social media “influencers.” Every corner is a postcard, every alley a potential profile picture.

But as beautiful as it is, Hallstatt also comes with a crowd. Tourists flock from all over the world, selfie sticks in hand, eager to capture the iconic view of the lake and church spire framed by jagged peaks. Despite the bustle, it’s impossible not to be enchanted. Walking along the waterfront or up into the narrow lanes, we found moments of quiet among the flocks of visitors — spots to simply breathe in the scenery, reflect on the centuries of salt mining that made this village famous, and imagine the families whose livelihoods were built here long before social media existed.

Yet beyond the idyllic lakefront lies one of Hallstatt’s most intriguing secrets: the Bone Church (Beinhaus). Tucked behind the parish church, this small chapel houses over 1,200 painted skulls and bones, a tradition born from limited burial space in the village. Each skull is inscribed with names and dates, offering a hauntingly beautiful connection to the generations who lived and worked here, many tied to the salt trade that made Hallstatt wealthy. Walking through the alleyways to the chapel, it’s impossible not to reflect on the lives behind the picture-perfect façade and the centuries of history that give this village its depth.