Our last morning in Naples began with a Rick Steves walking tour through the city’s historic center. His narration guided us past narrow alleys lined with laundry, open-air markets, and churches that seemed to appear on every corner. Naples is loud and layered — ancient Greek ruins underfoot, Baroque façades above, and scooters weaving through both. Listening to the tour helped make sense of it all, showing how this gritty, energetic city became one of Italy’s most influential ports.

Before catching our train, we stopped at Cuori di Sfoglia for their signature pastry — a flaky, heart-shaped shell filled with sweet cream. It was perfectly Neapolitan: simple, rich, and unapologetically indulgent. Fueled by sugar and espresso, we boarded the train to Rome, just over an hour north.

Rome felt calmer and more open than Naples but no less alive. After checking into our apartment, we spent the afternoon at a pasta-making class near Piazza Navona. Rolling and shaping pasta by hand quickly became a favorite memory. American soldiers stationed in Italy after World War II helped spread Italian food culture worldwide, bringing pasta, pizza, and espresso habits back to the U.S. — one of the many small ways history travels with people.

That night, we joined a moonlight tour of the Colosseum. Walking through its massive arches under soft lighting made it easy to imagine the roar of ancient crowds. The guide explained how the structure had withstood earthquakes, fires, and even nearby bombing raids during WWII. When Allied forces — including the U.S. Fifth Army — liberated Rome in 1944, the Colosseum stood as both a symbol of survival and resilience.

We ended the night with a slow walk back through quiet streets, the city glowing under yellow lamps. From Naples’ heart-shaped pastries to Rome’s ancient grandeur, the day felt like a bridge between two very different Italys — one full of noise and flavor, the other history and grace.

On to a moonlight tour of the Coliseum…