Tonight, we are unwinding in Lecce, a city that feels less like a town and more like a theatrical set carved from honey-colored stone. Today was a journey through the “heel” of the Italian boot—the Salento peninsula—a region with a history as layered as the limestone it’s built upon.
Morning: The Wild Ionian Coast
We started our day where the land meets the Ionian Sea. For first-time visitors, the Salento is defined by its dual personality: the rugged, cave-filled Adriatic coast to the east and the soft, Caribbean-style sandy beaches to the west.
We first explored the Salina dei Monaci. Historically, this area was managed by Benedictine monks (hence the name) who harvested salt here as far back as the 16th century. Salt was “white gold” in the Mediterranean, essential for preserving food. Today, it’s a serene nature reserve where the white salt flats contrast beautifully with the pink flamingos that frequent the dunes.
Next, we trekked into Porto Selvaggio. This “Wild Port” is a stark reminder of what the Mediterranean looked like before modern development. We hiked through a dense forest of Aleppo pines—planted in the 1950s as part of a massive reforestation project—to reach a secluded rocky cove. The water here is uniquely cold because of underground freshwater springs that discharge directly into the sea, a natural phenomenon that has provided a “refrigerator” for sailors since Roman times.
Lecce and the surrounding Salento region have some surprising and deep-rooted ties to the USA, ranging from World War II heroism to a quirky California namesake.
- The “Liberator” Legacy (WWII)
For American history buffs, the fields just outside Lecce hold significant weight. During 1944 and 1945, the Lecce Airfield was a major hub for the 15th U.S. Army Air Force.
- The 98th Heavy Bombardment Group: Flying B-24 Liberators, these American crews flew dangerous strategic missions from Lecce into Germany, Austria, and the Balkans.
- The Connection: Many local families still have stories of the “Americano” airmen who were stationed here. If you drive southwest of the city, you’re passing over land that was once a bustling U.S. military base, built by the U.S. Army Engineers to help turn the tide of the war in Europe.
- The Cupertino Connection
You might recognize the name Cupertino, California (home of Apple HQ). That name actually traces its roots directly back to the Lecce province!
- Saint Joseph of Cupertino: The town of Copertino is just 15 minutes from Lecce. In 1776, a Spanish cartographer in California named a local stream Arroyo San José de Cupertino in honor of this local saint.
- Sister Cities: Today, Cupertino, CA, and Copertino, Italy, are official Sister Cities. There are regular student exchanges and cultural visits between the heart of Silicon Valley and this quiet corner of Puglia.
- The “Discovery” of Salento
While the region has been inhabited for millennia, it was arguably a New York Times article in the 1980s that “put it back on the map” for the modern English-speaking world.
- Patience Gray: An influential food writer and artist, Gray lived in a restored farmhouse near Lecce for decades. Her writing in the NYT described the Salento as a “lost world” of primitive beauty, sparking the first wave of American interest in the region’s unique “cucina povera” and Baroque architecture.
Afternoon: The “Florence of the South”
By late afternoon, we checked into Lecce. To understand this city, you have to understand the Counter-Reformation. In the 17th century, the Catholic Church wanted to inspire awe and devotion through grandeur, and Lecce became the ultimate canvas for this “Baroque” movement.
- Piazza del Duomo: This square is a masterpiece of urban “stagecraft.” Unlike most open Italian piazzas, this one is an enclosed courtyard. In the past, it served as a private, fortified space for the Bishop. Entering it feels like walking into an outdoor ballroom.
- The Roman Amphitheater: Right in the middle of the modern shopping district, we looked down into the 1st-century AD arena. It was built during the reign of Augustus and could once hold 25,000 spectators. It’s a literal bridge between the Roman Lupiae (ancient Lecce) and the bustling city of today.
The Art of the “Poor Man’s Marble”
The highlight was ducking into a small Cartapesta (papier-mâché) workshop. This craft is the soul of Lecce. In the 17th and 18th centuries, the city was building so many churches that they couldn’t afford—or transport—enough heavy marble or wood for all the statues.
Local artisans innovated a “poor man’s marble” using paper, straw, and glue made from flour and water. They used hot irons to “mold” the paper into realistic folds of clothing. Seeing a master craftsman turn a pile of scrap paper into a saint that looks like solid stone was a magic trick.
Lecce has a way of making you feel like you’ve stepped back into a golden age, quite literally. - Basilica di Santa Croce: We stood in front of what is arguably the most famous façade in Puglia. It took over 150 years to complete (1549–1695). Because the local pietra leccese (limestone) is so soft, sculptors were able to carve it like butter. The result is a riot of stone “lace”—look closely and you’ll see dragons, lions, and even Turkish captives, symbolizing the victory of the West over the Ottoman Empire at the Battle of Lepanto.