Our first day in Southern Italy was a masterclass in ancient history and “slow living.” After landing at Bari Airport, we traded the modern world for the limestone cliffs of the Puglia and Basilicata regions, tracing routes that have been walked for millennia.
Gravina in Puglia: The Prelude to the PastOur introduction to cave culture began in Gravina in Puglia. This town is a geological marvel, carved directly into limestone and perched over an ancient canyon. Historically, it served as a vital stop along the Via Appia.For a bit of context for those back in the USA, the Via Appia is often called the “Queen of Roads”—much like our Route 66, it was the primary artery of its time, connecting Rome to the strategic port of Brindisi and fueling the empire’s trade and expansion.We headed to the park just north of the Ponte Acquedotto to get our bearings. Rather than crossing the bridge itself, we observed its dramatic span over the ravine from this vantage point. It was the perfect spot for Mike to launch the drone; the aerial footage of the stone arches against the rugged limestone edges is something I can’t wait to share with you all.
The Altamura Tradition
Continuing toward Matera, we made an essential stop in Altamura. This town is synonymous with Pane di Altamura, the first bread in Europe to receive PDO (Protected Designation of Origin) status.There is a fascinating historical parallel here to the American “pioneer spirit.” Just as early American settlers relied on sourdough starters and durable biscuits to survive long treks across the frontier, the “peasant culture” of Altamura perfected a bread that stays fresh for weeks. This wasn’t a luxury; it was a survival necessity for shepherds spending long periods in the high pastures.
Matera: Living in the Sassi
We have officially checked into our temporary home: a cave house. Matera is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world, and its layout is defined by the concept of shared living.Our host introduced us to a beautiful architectural term: the vicinato. This refers to a common community area, structurally defined by three walls and shared water access. The vicinato was the heart of social life; it’s where families shared news, washed clothes, and looked after one another’s children. It’s the ancient Italian version of the “front porch culture” or the “town square” in the US—a space designed specifically to foster connection.
The Afternoon Reset. After a lunch of incredible local pasta—simple, handmade, and perfectly al dente—the adults retreated to the Locanda San Martino Thermae. This isn’t just a modern spa; it is an ancient Roman spa built into the caves.Soaking in these thermal chambers feels like stepping back 2,000 years. It’s the ultimate way to wash away the jet lag and transition into the “Matera mindset.” Tomorrow, we dive deeper into the history of the Sassi, but for tonight, we are content living among the stones.
