We started early from Kaunas, the morning mist still hanging over the roads as we made our way north toward one of Lithuania’s most powerful and haunting sites—the Hill of Crosses. It’s hard to put into words what it feels like to stand there: thousands upon thousands of crosses covering the small hill, each one placed by a traveler, family, or pilgrim. The site began as a symbol of defiance against oppression—first under Tsarist rule, then during Soviet occupation—and has since become a quiet monument to faith, remembrance, and resilience. The U.S. Embassy in Lithuania often honors it as a symbol of the country’s enduring spirit, something that resonates deeply with Americans who know the value of freedom hard-won.

After a reflective walk through the paths of crosses, we continued north, crossing into Latvia and heading toward the Ķemeri National Park—a complete contrast to the solemnity of the morning.

The Great Ķemeri Bog Boardwalk felt like stepping into another world: golden moss, mirror-like pools, and the faint scent of pine carried by the wind. The boardwalk’s circular loop gave us an hour and a half of pure calm and fresh Baltic air. It’s easy to see why Latvians are proud of their wild spaces—so accessible, so untouched.

By late afternoon, we reached Riga, the capital of Latvia. Even in the fading light, the city sparkled with hints of the coming season. Workers were stringing lights through Dome Square and setting up wooden stalls for the Christmas Market, one of the oldest and most charming in Europe. We checked into our hotel, dropped our bags, and took a short evening stroll through Old Town Riga—past the medieval spires, cobbled streets, and warm glow spilling from cafés. This marked a special milestone: European Country #29 for our family.

It was a full day, one that traced a path from sacred ground to the soul of the Baltic coast. And as we ended it beneath the first twinkling lights of Riga’s festive season, it felt like the perfect bridge between reflection and renewal.

Latvia 🇱🇻