We left La Spezia this morning, trading the salty Ligurian air for the quiet, stone-lined banks of Ivrea. Nestled in the foothills of the Alps, Ivrea immediately greeted us with a view that felt like stepping into a painting. From the south bank of the Dora Baltea River, we gazed toward the Ponte Vecchio, its centuries-old stone arch framing the pastel-colored houses that clung to the water’s edge. The reflection in the calm water doubled the charm, making it hard to know where the real world stopped and the dream began.
A short walk brought us to the exterior of Ivrea’s medieval castle, its distinctive red-brick towers dating back to the late 14th century when the House of Savoy reinforced the region’s defenses. Built on the orders of Amadeus VI, known as the Green Count, the castle was w ypart of a network of fortifications controlling trade and travel between the Italian plains and the Alpine passes into France and Switzerland. Over the centuries, the castle served as a military stronghold, a symbol of feudal power, and even a prison—its solid walls holding centuries of stories.
But Ivrea’s history stretches far deeper than its medieval walls. The town traces its roots back to the Roman era, when it was known as Eporedia, founded in 100 BCE as a strategic outpost guarding the route between Gaul and Northern Italy. Its location at the edge of the Alps made it a key hub for merchants, armies, and pilgrims traveling between the Mediterranean and northern Europe. Throughout the Middle Ages, Ivrea grew into a vital political and religious center, serving as the seat of a bishopric and a contested prize in regional power struggles.
In more recent history, Ivrea became famous for Olivetti, the innovative Italian typewriter and computer manufacturer that shaped both industrial design and workplace culture in the 20th century. Olivetti not only exported its products to the United States but also introduced sleek, functional design into American offices, blending Italian creativity with modern technology. The company’s influence was so significant that in 2018, Ivrea was recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its “Industrial City of the 20th Century,” honoring the way Olivetti shaped urban planning and community life.
Culturally, Ivrea is perhaps most famous for its Storico Carnevale di Ivrea, a festival unlike any other in the world. Instead of confetti or streamers, the streets erupt into the legendary “Battle of the Oranges,” a three-day spectacle reenacting the city’s medieval fight for freedom. Teams in colorful uniforms hurl oranges in symbolic defiance, turning the cobbled streets into a vivid carpet of citrus. The event is deeply rooted in local identity and commemorates the people’s resistance to tyranny—values that echo America’s own Revolutionary spirit. We didn’t visit during the celebration this time, but standing here, imagining the energy, color, and chaos, we knew one thing for certain: we have to come back for Carnevale.
After a day soaking in the charm and history, we continued our journey to our home for the next two nights—a sunlit villa with a pool. After days of constant movement, early mornings, and jam-packed adventures, the idea of slowing down and recharging felt like a gift. The kids are already planning pool games, and we’re looking forward to lazy breakfasts on the terrace, catching our breath before the final leg of our travels.
The yellow-and-red shield with a black figure represents one of the nine “aranceri” (orange thrower) teams in the famous Battle of the Oranges—the highlight of Ivrea’s Storico Carnevale. Each team’s flag hangs along the streets and bridges in the weeks leading up to the festival, turning the whole city into a patchwork of medieval-style heraldry.
